The inventor's initial goal was to discover a water dispersible, self emulsifying surfactant that would be oil soluble and simultaneously have emollient properties with a desirable skin feel. This surfactant when added to H.sub.2 O at room temperature would form its own oil in H.sub.2 O emulsion and at the same time appear and feel like a cosmetic skin lotion. In addition, the surfactant would be stable, safe and effective at use concentrations.
The result of this effort is U.S. Pat. No. 4,559,226 which introduced at least two self-emulsifying alkoxylated esters having the structural formula: ##STR1## trade name: Hetester.RTM. PCA ##STR2## trade name: Hetester.RTM. PHA.
Increasing the hydrophilic portion of structure b, to cause water solubility, the resulting compound has the following structure: ##STR3## trade name: CUPL.RTM. PIC for which Patent Applications have been submitted.
The resulting compound, that is, CUPL.RTM. PIC became a fragrance solubilizer and oil in water emulsifier.
The aforementioned Hetesters.RTM. proved to be excellent oil in water emulsififers, emulsifying at least twice their own weight in oil. They further proved to be excellent pigment wetters and dispersers.
Both the Hetester.RTM. & CUPL.RTM. are synthesized and do not contain any animal derived components. They are free of phenolic and oleic groupings. These properties result in non-distortion of fragrances, less tachiness and excellent safety scores.
Recently, U.S. Pat. No. 5,116,604 was issued. The preferred embodiment of this invention has the following structure: ##STR4## Trade name: Elefac.RTM..
This unique ester was produced by using a specific C-20 alcohol clearly defined in the Patent. The use of this specific C-20 alcohol resulted in a neopentanoate ester with an exclusive extraordinary emolliency that significantly enhances sun protective factor (SPF) of a sunscreen formulation. In addition, it has these desirable properties: clear, low-freezing liquid, good color, odor, non-comedogenic, stable and safe. It is also a moisturizer and pigment wetter for cosmetic products.
Progressing further,various uses of the Hetester.RTM. and CUPL.RTM. surfactants in combination with the oil soluble ester, Elefac.RTM., gave a water thin, oil in water emulsion without the need for stabilizing water dispersible thickeners. The emulsion thus formed was stable for 3 months at 50.degree. C. and had a perfect freeze/thaw stability.